IDRS forum (TM)

John Towle · 2009-11-26 15:48:18

Hi Jonathan,

You can get a set of three 6" Delta #37-658 (not De Walt: getting my D's mixed up) jointer blades in a blue plastic case at Lowes in the tool locker. As I recall they cost somewhere around $40-50. Made in Germany. Tool handle from Ace Hardware is about $12 or some such (maybe less) You might have to file down the opening slightly to get the blade inserted. Kerry Willingham got me set up with this jerry rig. As an aside, Tom Stacy (NY Phil EH) uses this setup as well. Sears has jointer blades for less, but the Deltas are better quality steel. You truly get what you pay for.

The cane is sweet!!! Especially the Lorée. I'll let you know how the other stuff works out. Thank you, my friend, & Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Best,

john

Trent · 2009-11-27 00:04:04

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-C350-8-Inch … amp;sr=8-1

I guess the price went up some since I last bought some. Still, if you actually keep them sharp they last for a VERY long time, and you can buy in with two colleagues.

This is the handle:

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Adj … mp;sr=1-38

You need to file the handle opening about 1/8 of an inch to get the width of the blade to fit.

Dean · 2010-01-12 18:01:32

Deep sigh.....

Deep deep sigh....

Deep deep deepdeepdeepdeep sigh.....

This post will start differently from every other post you have ever seen here:

All hail that warrior of the aged, that soldier for your living room furniture, the person to whom you go when all seems lost....
The upholsterer.
Yes gentle readers, I have become filled with admiration for the upholsterer, for they have a secret that I know not, a secret that differentiates them from all mortal beings.
They know how to put square pieces of cloth on round objects with no problems. Yes, it is possible! Yet when I, a mere mortal try desperately to cover my foam inner bassoon case with it.s rounded shapes using a square blanket, I discover something.
Doing this is like making love in the nude at a temperature close to -40 degrees.
It's f$%^&*g close to impossible!
Photos will be posted if the blanket, the case, and I survive this experience!

fernandozuniga · 2010-02-07 13:41:22

I have been thinking about building a dial indicator, but I'm not sure which dial indicator to buy. I've seen some quite cheap ones, but I'm not sure if they will work

One that would need little work to convert it into a reed dial indicator is this
http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Digital-I … mp;sr=8-17

That one comes with the stand, it will need just minor modifications, and it's digital, so it can go easy from inches to metric.

There is this other one
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-INDICATOR … amp;sr=1-1

But that one is in inches, and I'm used to metric for reed stuff.

Any advice will be welcome!

Fernando Zuniga
DMA Candidate
Bassoon Performance
The University of Arizona

Last edited by fernandozuniga (2010-02-07 13:42:08)

Bssntech · 2010-02-07 21:14:46

Fernando:

My biggest concern either way you go is how do you pla to mount the contact arm that goes between the reed blades when measuring. as well as drilling it perfectly on center, and through a piece of steel that already probably been hardened?

When i used to build dial gauges i buile a whole seperate bracket. I have seem some made with indicator bases, but an additional clamping fixture will be needed to to hold the feeler arm, and them the jaborous process of making the feeler arm is a project in itself.

I applaud you on doing this project, but I just want to let you know how involved this project can be. Its not a simple quick drilling and modification job.

Best Regards,
Chad

fernandozuniga · 2010-02-08 20:13:45

Chad,

I was thinking in using some kind of clamp, brace or bracket to attach the feeler arm. The issue is how to make the feeler arm. I need something thin but strong enough so it does not bend easily. What did you use in yours?

Thanks,

Fernando Zuniga
DMA Candidate
Bassoon Performance
The University of Arizona

Bssntech · 2010-02-09 01:02:40

Fernando:

I never really found a material that i was totally happy with. The first few i made were from air hardening drill rod stock. The drill rod stock could be heated to high temperature and hardened after i filed it to proper thickness, but the problem was the air hardening stock tend to develop scaling after being hardened, since i was simply using a propane torch to heat the rod stock, there was always the chance I was going to overheat it, and make the metal too hard that it would be brittle and break.

The next stuff I tried was oil quenching drill rod stock. This didnt develop the scaling that the air hardening stock did, but again since i didnt have the means to invest in a heat treating oven, I couldnt get the hardness consistant enough, and would have them get too hard, and brittle.

The last 4 gauges I made I used stainless steel rod. this was OK but its does have a tendency to flex and bend.

I finally just gave up and stopped making them, I just didnt didnt have the time or the financial means to make them as well as my competitors. I actually was beat on them price wise when Justin Miller came out with an extremely well made one for $150!!!

Im sorry if thats really a big help, but thatll at least give you an idea of what is involved.

Best Regards,
Chad

allthumbs46 · 2010-02-09 11:30:09

I made my dial indicator stand in the early 60's and have been using it since without problems. The base is a flat plate of mild steel. The posts and the feeler arm are similarly 1/4 inch round mild steel rod. The coupling brackets are 1/2 inch square steel about 1 inch long drilled on adjacent sides to fit the posts and then for set screws to hold things solid. When I made the feeler arm, I just chucked the steel rod into a drill and filed on the rod as it was spinnig. I put a taper on the arm so that it was somewhat larger near the base. I then filed the tapered portion so that it was flat with a (flat) bump where the indicator point would rest. I've never had problems with bending of the feeler arm (the thin portion is only about 1.3 inches long). I also scored the arm at regular distances from the tip, so that I have easily found and consistent measuring points on the reed.

My dial indicator is in inches and reads continously from 0-50 thousandths. I find that a whole lot more useful than those that read 0-25-0 or 0-50-0. Metric gauges have similar options. It also has a threaded back (a 1/4 rod screws into the back) rather than the usual tab with a hole. My teacher had a similar setup, but used a back plunger indicator and had commercial brackets. That type of indicator nice in that the face of the indicator is horizontal rather than upright -- easier to read (unfortunately they're hard to find). Go to a tool store and look at a Mitutoyo or Starrett catalog to see what's available.

Chinese gauges are OK, but tend to have stiffer springs and apply more force when making measurements. Perhaps that's why I haven't had problems with bending of the feeler arm (my gauge is a Starrett). I made one for a friend about 10 years ago using a Chinese gauge and the whole thing came out under $40 (not counting my time, which was free) -- I've lost touch with the friend, so can't tell you how it's holding up..

I can send pictures (of my old one) if you want.

tom schubert (schubert@sandiego.edu)

mpartlow · 2010-04-13 01:25:15

Anyone find a way to get some cheap holding mandrel things for when you leave your reeds on the rack?

Trent · 2010-04-13 09:46:54

mpartlow wrote:
Anyone find a way to get some cheap holding mandrel things for when you leave your reeds on the rack?

If you just need something to hold the reed upright you can just pound some nails through a board, turn the board upside down, and presto! drying rack.

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Re: The "Cheap Alternatives" thread

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Re: The "Cheap Alternatives" thread

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Re: The "Cheap Alternatives" thread

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Re: The "Cheap Alternatives" thread

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